From Duran Duran to raves, fashion bets on music

On a Saturday morning, Junya Watanabe painted a new character for the season. For the Japanese designer, it’s all about a mix of characters that synthesize a person with a rebel heart, a dark past, and emo-inspired bold and colorful hair. Duran Duran’s “Girls on Film” gave the boost in order for the show to start. 80s-inspired looks kicked off the runway while a neo-romantic/goth kid was emerging to impress us. Like how the lyrics of the song say, models were coming out two-by-two bringing back a whole 80s culture that once upon a time was decorating the walls of the now grown-up kids - with touches of punk. Sometimes for a designer is difficult to re-write history and culture by telling a different story and giving us a new aspect of how to see things. Yet Junya Watanabe managed to say new things with tartans, biker leathers, and cobweb sweaters. There was a polish to his silhouettes and accessories, chains and pearls galore draped over loose, slightly lopsided dresses, oversized shirts, and platform combat boots. For designers, it can be tricky to stand out with a collection that relies on all-black looks, but somehow he seemed to be making a case for more glamour and more drama - without disconnecting from the realities of daily life. The long cape blazers, deconstructed shirts, and sporty jackets maybe looked over the top but there are completely wearable and functional redefining the dress code of all-black looks in a season where blackness looks like the biggest fashion trend.

And from the roughness of the dark period of the 80s, we went into the pleasure of the outdoors. Hermes took us on a camping day by the side of a giant purple sand dune. Call it a rave in a desert that meets Tennis Club de Paris. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski created her own sense of music festival/party by creating draped dresses cut to fluttery effect, color-blocked or embellished with looping rope stitches, graphic-patterned caftans, and mini-dresses as an effortless approach to the excitement and looseness of the rave. The essence of Burning Man was translated in chunky ready-for-combat platform sandals and marabou feathers bags in vibrant orange and red and shorts, knitted crop tops, and midi black leather dresses. After multiple lockdowns, the vacation spirit is rising for everyone across the globe. Seems that the Hermes customer is ready to climb a mountain to get into a private party. But let's see rave season is upon us.