Vogue CS in English
Fashion sobriety, the season of repositioning
Sotiris Kaberis9. 3. 2023
A new wearability rose up in Paris.
For the world of fashion the word ‘’restart’’ is something that we heard a lot this season, coming from all kinds of directions. Show notes, show spaces, invitations and collections, everything had this new allure of change, building a new kind of relationship with the customers by putting them on the forefront. There is a new meaning under every collection in Paris this season bearing the ‘’clothes don't wear you, you wear them’’ motto and waving the flag of a new and promising era. This season big spectacles that are trying to steal the substance and purpose of the industry by creating a social media moment, just feel out of fashion. Celebrities are still sitting on the front row but other times are walking down the runway by totally blending in with the other models. Nothing feels over the top and everything is discreet at the same time, showing us a different side of fashion, one that we missed decades ago.
Through the multiple changes of culture and society on a global level due to economical and political shifts but also through a lot of controversy in the fundamental principles of every community, fashion decided that it was time to reposition itself globally and focus on what actually drives it through. And that’s desirable clothes. Sometimes a well-made coat is all we need, thought many designers in a time of epiphany and clarity by actually listening to the world and what it needs. In an effort to sober up from the excessness, fashion went into a rehab by touching base with its primordial instincts. The result of this self refinement process is the emergence of a new novelty which praises the new wearability. The essence of it is not about crazy ideas or big dreams, it’s just all about fabulous clothes and fresh elegance.
The meaning of repositioning and redirection was very vivid in Demna’s mind for his first Balenciaga collection after the outrage that erupted in December about two of the brand’s advertising campaigns. This time for the designer is not about just doing his own job, but also redeeming himself and dragging out of the mud Christobal’s name and legacy (somehow like a glorious metaphor borrowed by the meaning of his mud show last September). For his show last Sunday in Paris, Demna scaled down his ways of presenting the collections by creating an all white space with black office chairs. The collection was focused on the basis of tailoring accompanied with a statement from the designer, talking about his childhood experience with it, through a personal story note which was left on the guests seats. There were no slogan t-shirts, or sneakers this time, things that made the brand profitable in the first place. Instead of that there were a lot black suits and an ode to the perfect tailored trousers which took the shape of dresses, jackets and trench coats. Although the concept was about touching base with heritage, Demna was still there under the inflatable jackets and pants that are used by motorcyclists as protection in case of a crush (another great metaphor about the house's current state), the mirrored space- age sunglasses and the distressed boots. The attitude of Demna’s distinguished structuredness technique of disfiguring the body gave place to haute bourgeois romantic florals and a shimmering touch of evening gowns taken from the past and presented on the runway under a modernistic approach. It was elegant, mature and contrite, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that it can generate a new circle of desire for the creations of the house.
Foto: Courtesy of Balenciaga
When it comes to desire and what triggers it Pierpaolo Piccioli always has the ability of understanding and playing with it. This time Valentino’s creative director focuses on black tie as a case study for his latest collection. Not the penguin black and white strictness you might just think but a more relaxed and modern version for the use of the tie. The designer chose to take a symbol of masculinity only to reshape it for every gender and make it fitted for every type of clothing - literally. Piccioli cycled back the essence of his Spring/Summer 2023 couture show turning it into a ready-to-wear minimalistic fantasy. There were no prints, or rich and complex embroidered, instead of that there were simple lines, mini skirts and shorts for both men and women models showcasing the importance of individualism and freedom by reimagining formality and making it fitted for the modern age.
Foto: Courtesy of Valentino
In a season that wearability became the watchword of the season replacing the idea of trends with a unified perspective about fashion, Nicolas Ghesquière started an exploratory trip down the memory lane by wondering what actually is French style. Louis Vuittons women’s wear creative director offered a new answer on this eternal question that every young girl has in her mind. This season the designer left behind his sci-fi influences and took a down-to-earth approach by producing actual wearable items of desire and re-thinking the modern woman in the present. Inside Musée d’Orsay, an urban symphony took place mimicking the full of life streets of the City of Light. Clothes this time were made for real people, women who go to their offices and want to wear a coat with a pair of jeans or a shaved faux fur blazer. The collection had plenty of unexpected contradictions like the extra long sleeves and the led masks, the minimalistic evening wear and the embroidered loud shorts - but everything was well putted under a very realistic approach on a woman’s daily routine reflecting new possibilities and a new state of being for the brand.
Exactly the same though with Mr. Ghesquière had Chanel’s creative director. Camellias symbolize the first sign of spring, the rebirth of nature. For Chanel this particular flower is a symbol of style and pure elegance since Coco Chanel put them on a dress back in 1923. Virginie Viard made an entire show dedicated to that flower in an effort to produce a more modest version of French elegance made to be worn by women on the streets of Paris.
The concept of this new wearability which rose up in Paris this fashion week is perfectly reflecting in the latest Miu Miu show which closed Paris Fashion Week last Tuesday. Imagine a girl running pantless on a Monday morning to catch the metro only to be in time at her office. Messy hair, nerdy glasses and a huge bag. That’s a pretty realistic approach to the everyday life of a woman through a more polished and funny approach. Miuccia Prada gets inspired from Miu Miu’s past only to create a contemporary take on normality. The essence of wearability and comfort was present at every look that she showcased on the runway. Oversized structure hoodies and impressive layering dominated the catwalk touching base with real life. Style and elegance though are not things that people just get with their ability to dress. These are things that people obtain through their own experiences in life. Miu Miu’s latest wardrobe equalises youth with style as a solution to the strong woman who’s sure about herself and what her everyday needs are. All she has to do is make the next season’s wishlist.
Kolekce podzim - zima 2023/2024, MIU MIU
Foto: Courtesy of Miu Miu