Time, enlightenment and love. Paris Fashion Week answers to the biggest philosophical questions

Nicolas Di Felice was thinking of how life can pass us by so quickly, especially when measured as grains of sand through an hourglass. That’s why he decided to make it a reality by turning the Courrèges Spring/Summer 2023 show space into a giant hourglass filled with sand which was actually vegetable, made of a nutshell. A result of 100% renewable raw material. For the brand’s creative director everything in fashion is about the plasticity of the perception of time, a value exchange between heritage and invention, between time-consuming craft and time-saving technology. And that’s exactly what he tried to showcase though this show. Nicolas Di Felice is looking beyond the obvious, trying to connect the past with the future by re-editioning signature pieces and best-sellers and at the same time going beyond that. For the new Courrèges, as it’s forming right now, denim plays a big part - the deconstruction, the embellished surfaces, and creative cutting gave a new meaning to what we call denim this season. A new-herigate came up, to change things in the temporal - that felt almost like a wake-up call.

From darkness comes light - a phrase that most of us heard about million times during the pandemic, a line of words that we always have in our minds, it give us hope through difficult periods and make us dream of the next chapter we are about to write in our own book of life. For Dries Van Noten this was the time for his next step and that’s why he emerged once again into Paris Fashion Week’s physical show schedule. The show started with a mystical parade of 20 all- black looks. You may think ‘’there’s had to be a reason to buy just an other black jacket’’ but the designer effortlessly re-invented the meaning of the black jacket by using just a brooch to achieve an almost abstract flower sculpture. By the next section of the collection the darkness started to fade away giving its place to a series of monochrome pastel looks as a sign of hope for the future, until the real spectacle came out - the one that the designer is well known and loved for. This season sees him revisiting archival floral prints and playing with their sizes and combinations in an exuberant cacophony of color and texture that is his own special purview. In an almost poetic gesture the deconstructed runway filled with colourful looks, celebrating optimism and the joy of living the moment as the outcome of a revolution period for society. Behold, the fashion enlightenment.

And for celebrating the joy of life, we went to what actually make us feel alive, and that’s love. An emotion so strong that makes our hearts beat, something that we celebrating through wedding ceremonies and parties. That’s exactly what Acne’s Jonny Johansson had in his mind in order to celebrate Acne Studios 10 years of showing in Paris. Of course, we didn’t expect to be an ordinary one. ‘’There is something cute, kitschy, sweet about weddings but also something serious and vulnerable’’ creative director says about the ideas he wanted to include in his vision. In Acne Studios’ wedding everything feels different. Bedsheets and beds becoming the guests seats and the chandeliers coming down to the floor and getting embellished with sea sells. Romantic roses, white satin bridal slippers and Valentine’s bows, silk and tulle are playing with the essence of love and romanticism these days, creating a surreal dreamscape which open our eyes to an entirely different aspect of doing things in our lives. Yes, in this wedding the bride celebrated love in black.